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Nepal Chapter 6

Pangboche to Namche

A day early, but still a dollar short

Apparently I arrived in Pangboche a couple days too early for the festival. Oops.

Without extra days to spend waiting, and starting to feel under the weather, I decided to just stay one night.

The next day I would make my way back down to Namche where it's warmer, sunnier and lower elevation.

I woke up in Pangboche with body aches and overall feeling pretty terrible.

Upon leaving the village, I visited the oldest Bhuddist monastery in all of Nepal. It was modest but beautiful.

On my way down to Namche, I passed through the village of Tengboche.


From the monastery in Pangboche, I found myself on the Everest Basecamp (aka EBC) superhighway; the direct route leading from Lukla, to EBC and back.

Tengboche contains Nepal's largest monastery. When I arrived, it was quite crowded with throngs of tourists all waiting for each other to move out of the way to take the very same pictures.


While bikepacking the Great Divide, I coined the term hrumpy to describe a state I was in, between hungriness and grumpiness.

On the trek from Pangboche to Namche, I found myself increasingly sick and frustrated—angry, even—with the people around me.

On the Divide, I had Jens to unleash my hrumpiness upon. But here, I only had myself, stewing in my own sick and angry singriness.

The rest of the walk, although mostly downhill (for real this time) was so hard. I felt so bad.

Back to Namche

Here, I went back to the warm, sunny embrace of the teahouse where I spent my first two nights acclimating, and left a bag of belongings behind at.

I got a hot shower and even washed some underwear, socks and shirt at the same time (woohoo!).

Feeling more like a mix of a cold and the flu, this is how I'm spending a couple days:

...cocooned in my 15F Nemo sleeping bag... venturing downstairs only for large pots of ginger tea and the daily Dal Bhat.

Yesterday, I left to find the one and only post office in this whole expansive area, only to find it padlocked shut.

I inquired about it during dinner and was told it does exist and that I should try again the next day, perhaps at a different time.

So, wish me luck as I again climb a hundred steps, taking a breather after every two, to get there again... (that's my singriness speaking, haha)

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